Cohncamedown,finally,andweallwentouttothecar.Itwasabig,closedcar,withadriverinawhitedusterwithbluecollarandcuffs,andwehadhimputthebackofthecardown.Hepiledinthebagsandwestartedoffupthestreetandoutofthetown.Wepassedsomelovelygardensandhadagoodlookbackatthetown,andthenwewereoutinthecountry,greenandrolling,andtheroadclimbingallthetime.WepassedlotsofBasqueswithoxen,orcattle,haulingcartsalongtheroad,andnicefarmhouses,lowroofs,andallwhite-plastered.IntheBasquecountrythelandalllooksveryrichandgreenandthehousesandvillageslookwell-offandclean.Everyvillagehadapelotacourtandonsomeofthemkidswereplayinginthehotsun.Thereweresignsonthewallsofthechurchessayingitwasforbiddentoplaypelotaagainstthem,andthehousesinthevillageshadredtiledroofs,andthentheroadturnedoffandcommencedtoclimbandweweregoingwayupclosealongahillside,withavalleybelowandhillsstretchedoffbacktowardthesea.Youcouldn'tseethesea.Itwastoofaraway.Youcouldseeonlyhillsandmorehills,andyouknewwheretheseawas.
WecrossedtheSpanishfrontier.Therewasalittlestreamandabridge,andSpanishcarabineers,withpatent-leatherBonapartehats,andshortgunsontheirbacks,ononeside,andontheotherfatFrenchmeninkepisandmustaches.Theyonlyopenedonebagandtookthepassportsinandlookedatthem.Therewasageneralstoreandinnoneachsideoftheline.Thechauffeurhadtogoinandfilloutsomepapersaboutthecarandwegotoutandwentovertothestreamtoseeiftherewereanytrout.BilltriedtotalksomeSpanishtooneofthecarabineers,butitdidnotgoverywell.RobertCohnasked,pointingwithhisfinger,iftherewereanytroutinthestream,andthecarabineersaidyes,butnotmany.
Iaskedhimifheeverfished,andhesaidno,thathedidn'tcareforit.
Justthenanoldmanwithlong,sunburnedhairandbeard,andclothesthatlookedasthoughtheyweremadeofgunny-sacking,camestridinguptothebridge.Hewascarryingalongstaff,andhehadakidslungonhisback,tiedbythefourlegs,theheadhangingdown.
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