ATnoonofSunday,the6thofJuly,thefiestaexploded.Thereisnootherwaytodescribeit.Peoplehadbeencominginalldayfromthecountry,buttheywereassimilatedinthetownandyoudidnotnoticethem.Thesquarewasasquietinthehotsunasonanyotherday.Thepeasantswereintheoutlyingwine-shops.Theretheyweredrinking,gettingreadyforthefiesta.Theyhadcomeinsorecentlyfromtheplainsandthehillsthatitwasnecessarythattheymaketheirshiftinginvaluesgradually.Theycouldnotstartinpayingcaféprices.Theygottheirmoney'sworthinthewine-shops.Moneystillhadadefinitevalueinhoursworkedandbushelsofgrainsold.Lateinthefiestaitwouldnotmatterwhattheypaid,norwheretheybought.
NowonthedayofthestartingofthefiestaofSanFermintheyhadbeeninthewine-shopsofthenarrowstreetsofthetownsinceearlymorning.Goingdownthestreetsinthemorningonthewaytomassinthecathedral,Iheardthemsingingthroughtheopendoorsoftheshops.Theywerewarmingup.Thereweremanypeopleattheeleveno'clockmass.SanFerminisalsoareligiousfestival.
Iwalkeddownthehillfromthecathedralandupthestreettothecaféonthesquare.Itwasalittlebeforenoon.RobertCohnandBillweresittingatoneofthetables.Themarble-toppedtablesandthewhitewickerchairsweregone.Theywerereplacedbycast-irontablesandseverefoldingchairs.Thecaféwaslikeabattleshipstrippedforaction.Todaythewaitersdidnotleaveyoualoneallmorningtoreadwithoutaskingifyouwantedtoordersomething.AwaitercameupassoonasIsatdown.
Whatareyoudrinking?IaskedBillandRobert.
Sherry,Cohnsaid.
Jerez,Isaidtothewaiter.
Beforethewaiterbroughtthesherrytherocketthatannouncedthefiestawentupinthesquare.ItburstandtherewasagrayballofsmokehighupabovetheTheatreGayarre,acrossontheothersideoftheplaza.Theballofsmokehungintheskylikeashrapnelburst,andasIwatched,anotherrocketcameuptoit,tricklingsmokeinthebrightsunlight.Isawthebrightflashasitburstandanotherlittlecloudofsmokeappeared.Bythetimethesecondrockethadburstthereweresomanypeopleinthearcade,thathadbeenemptyaminutebefore,thatthewaiter,holdingthebottlehighupoverhishead,couldhardlygetthroughthecrowdtoourtable.Peoplewerecomingintothesquarefromallsides,anddownthestreetweheardthepipesandthefifesandthedrumscoming.Theywereplayingtheriau-riaumusic,thepipesshrillandthedrumspounding,andbehindthemcamethemenandboysdancing.Whenthefifersstoppedtheyallcroucheddowninthestreet,andwhenthereed-pipesandthefifesshrilled,andtheflat,dry,hollowdrumstappeditoutagain,theyallwentupintheairdancing.Inthecrowdyousawonlytheheadsandshouldersofthedancersgoingupanddown.
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